Paddling From Carmacks to Dawson on the Yukon River

Monday, 09 August 2010 15:00 Written by Dave Freeman

We flew through Carmacks. The Shedd crew was keen to stick with us until Minto. Melissa, Kevin, Maureen, Konrad, and Kelsey were thrilled to join us for the infamous Five Finger Rapids. The only word we collectively decided sums up our experience in the rapids is “anticlimactic”.

The experience was anticlimactic due to the water level. You see, our map/guide book described the rapids as having 2 to 3 foot sanding waves. The Five Finger Rapids are considered to be class II. Well, we paddled up to the ominous columns of rocks that divide the river into five fingers. We stuck to the right side as all advice suggests. We paddled through fast moving water as it channeled through the columns. Those 2 to 3 foot waves were actually about half foot ripples.

Everyone had been psyched for the rapids-- especially Kevin and Konrad who were all set for the whitewater experience in our Wenonah Cascade royalex canoe. Our North Water spray cover was cinched down tight. Dave and I had spent time coaching them how to kneel and lower their center of gravity. Konrad had spent days perfecting his cross-bow Duffek stroke. Maureen was in the yellow kayak. Since I was the other kayaker that day, I taught her how to do a low brace and a wet exit in case she tipped over. While it had been fun to coach people on some advanced paddling techniques, they were unnecessary in the Five Finger Rapids.

Dave, Melissa and Kelsey were the first through the rapids. They eddied out and Kelsey proceeded to film everyone else who paddled through. Instead of capturing excited facial expressions and hair-raising steering maneuvers, she filmed people breezing right through the “rapids” with facial expressions that seemed to say, “is that it”. To be fair, the experience of a prospector during the Klondike Gold Rush was probably significantly more difficult. Their boats were not necessarily very sea-worthy or maneuverable. They were loaded down with gear. The water level fluctuates, so some had to dodge rocks, while others experienced much greater flow than us. The steamboats heading upstream had to be hauled through with a winch.

Anticlimactic sums up our experience. When we were all through, Dave veered the yellow canoe to the left. He had seen the standing waves below the middle finger of the rapids. When I asked where he was going, he exclaimed, “I'm going to find some whitewater!” Folks followed suit and enjoyed a slight thrill, paddling in the 1 foot wave train.

Rink Rapids looked and sounded a bit more daunting from upriver. There were many standing waves (bigger than 6 inches). However, the whitewater could be entirely avoided by sticking to the right side of the river.

Our last night out on the river with the Shedd crew was spent on a gravel bar in the middle of the river. All the campsites we stayed in prior to this one had been a bit more developed, complete with fire rings, super flat tent sites, occasional stacks of split wood and picnic tables. Everyone was glad to have a true back-country experience, setting up the kitchen on the beach and pitching tents on the gravel. Melissa was excited about several cool driftwood finds. Someone found a huge salmon jaw. Who knew their teeth were that sharp?! Dave and I spotted large beaver tracks in the mud near our tent.

The next day, we did one final hike, up Hoochekoo Bluff. Shortly after that, we were in Minto. Dave and I made pizza and chocolate cake to celebrate our last night with the Shedd crew.  Thanks to Melissa, Konrad, Maureen, Kelsey, and Kevin for joining us!!  It was so great to have you along.  We really appreciate your hard work—both on the river and off, working on the website updates!

The following morning, our group size shifted from seven to three. As we bid goodbye to the Shedd crew, we said hello to Scott. You see, Scott McPherson, a good friend of ours, joined us for the stretch of river from Minto to Dawson.

We paddled for four days with Scott and the river just flew by. Our daily mileage was regularly over 40 miles. We stopped briefly at Fort Selkirk and experienced the historic buildings juxtaposed with the tent city full of fellow paddlers.

We marveled at how the river changed in character, with dramatic rock cliff banks around every turn. Those established campsites became a thing of the past. Sometime between 5 and 6 pm every day, we chose a nice looking gravel bar. A thunderstorm rolled in during our second night of camping with Scott. This is the first thunderstorm that Dave and I have experienced during the North American Odyssey, believe it or not. I'm sure it isn't the last.

Most mornings were chilly. Some were foggy or drizzly. However, we noticed an enjoyable trend. Shortly after launching, the sun would get high enough in the sky to burn off any fog. It was almost like clockwork, 10:15 am, every day.

The character of the river changed where the White River's sediment-rich water poured into it. That nice aqua color we had become accustomed to changed to a milk-chocolate brown. Water from here on out, would have to be gathered in clearer tributary creeks.

Dave, Scott, and I paddled into Dawson on August 8, one day ahead of schedule. This is a good thing, because we have a major transition to make. When Dave and I head out of Dawson tomorrow, we will be on foot, heading into the Tombstone Territorial Park.

**Thanks for joining us, Scott.  It’s always a treat to paddle with you!

Treats from the Trail

Wednesday, 04 August 2010 09:34 Written by Dave Freeman

by Maureen Hanzel

Trail mix, with rice and beans every night is not necessarily the case while camping: with a few simple tricks one can create some tasty treats.

1. Dehydration is your friend.

2. Make sure to pack fresh fruits and vegetables.

3. Find proteins that will last.

4. Remember your spice kit.

5. Use this as an opportunity to experiment.

Dehydration is definitely your friend on the trail. Nowadays there are a wide variety of delicious dehydrated products like; tomato sauce, garlic mashed potatoes, hummus, vegetables and fruits. Just because it looks different from what it may look like in your kitchen at home adding some hot water will transform it into a meal.

Packing fresh durable vegetables and fruits can add a lot to a simple meal. The combination of bell pepper and onion into some pasta with dehydrated red sauce can make all the difference. When shopping for vegetables look for heartier vegetables that are less prone to molding. Good examples are; broccoli, bell peppers, beets, oranges, apples and garlic.

When you're out on the trail it is important to keep protein intake up to balance the energy you are putting out. Two great items that are a must are cheese and sausages. Cheese keeps well on the trail, especially heartier Parmesan and cheddar.

Meals on the trail can become bland, but if someone carries a spice kit along it can add that extra punch. It could include bullion, salt, pepper, other favorite seasonings, oil and garlic.

Finally, be inventive. This is a time to explore new surroundings and try new things like; peanut butter, M&Ms and pretzels on a bagel or mustard, cheese, pepperoni and chips on a tortilla.

Shedd Team, Signing Off

Wednesday, 04 August 2010 09:24 Written by Dave Freeman

It is hard to believe that our 8 day journey has finally come to an end. It has been a fantastic experience for all of us and we are all taking home memories that will last a lifetime.

In 8 days we have traveled over 240 miles maneuvering through shallow sand bars and anticipated rapids. The weather and river conditions were outstanding and due to that we were able to extend our trip past Carmacks to Minto. We thought that we would take some time to share with you about what we have experienced beyond the podcasts, photos, and Notes from the Trail.

Kevin: I have really enjoyed myself over past 8 days canoeing the Yukon River. I have really learned a lot about the history through my own research and by stopping by artifacts along the way. Dave and Amy have been wonderful hosts and they have graciously offered tips and hints on how to implement an outdoor education curriculum at my school. I am taking home incredible images of mountains, rock slides, bears, beavers, and even a lynx. I hope you have enjoyed all the updates that we have created for you. Thanks for following us on our journey into the wild.

Konrad: This journey has opened my eyes wider than they already were toward myself and the environment. I feel that there is a major difference between being fascinated by nature firsthand and behind a glass window or pages of books. I have gained a new appreciation for wildlife and it only makes me want to pursue a scientific career in this area of study even more so than before. The memories I have of my time here are beyond words, but what I find even better is that there are six other individuals who got to share these memories with me.

Maureen: It feels like we've been out here for months, but sadly it has only been 8 days traveling on the Yukon River. It has truly been a dream experience for me: I have never been in the wilderness like this and I have never canoed or kayaked more than three times in the past. The support and knowledge from my fellow teammates has helped me not only developed my canoeing and kayaking skills, but also develop a desire to kayak in the future. I will never forget my trip down the Yukon River and hopefully I can one day come back to the clear waters that cross the Canadian North.

Kelsey: I had fun getting to know different skills like paddling a canoe properly, what to do if you run into a bear, and how to make a delicious meal with limited ingredients. I also enjoyed visiting/learning more about the Yukon River itself and all the history it holds along the way like abandoned First Nation Villages and the Klondike Gold Rush mines. Going home with a million mosquito bites, I am excited to tell my stories but at the same time I don't want to end this adventure.

Melissa: It's been a privilege to learn alongside the expedition team and experience so many firsts, such as practicing Leave No Trace camping, taking bear safety precautions, and seeing the wildlife and ecosystems of the boreal forest. The moment when we all saw our first black bear on the opposite bank is one I will treasure for a lifetime. Everyone was so quiet and still, watching the bear or taking photos and thinking. I was glad we had the opportunity to join Wilderness Classroom on this expedition to try and convey the value of wild spaces.

Thanks to Dave and Amy for being such amazing teachers and sharing this part of the North American Odyssey with us. We'll be thinking of you as you continue your journey to Dawson City and beyond. The Shedd expedition team is signing out.

Reflecting on our Journey from Whitehorse to Carmacks

Tuesday, 03 August 2010 09:46 Written by Dave Freeman

by Amy Freeman

We were met in Whitehorse by a group of folks from the Shedd Aquarium. It was a joy to increase our team size from two to seven for the trip to Carmacks. Three college students, one teacher, and one Shedd staff member hopped into two canoes and two kayaks with the intent to cover 190 miles on the Yukon River in 10 days.

Prior to heading down the river with all of our gear, we had a practice day. The new team members got to practice paddle strokes and eddy turns in the fast moving current north of Whitehorse. The Kanoe People provided us with a shuttle from the Takini Bridge.

The following day was the real thing-- we loaded all of our food and gear into the boats for the first time and hit the river. That first day brought us well past the Takini Bridge. Thanks to ideal conditions, we were able to get a few miles into a glassy Lake Laberge. Camped on the eastern shore, the sun blazed intensely until well into the evening. A swim was had by all to cool off.

We had all heard stories about the dangers of Lake Laberge, so we were a bit tentative to realize that a south wind had picked up overnight. We launched in the 10 knot wind and half foot chop, keeping in mind that we might need to pull off the water if wind and waves increased. To our surprise, the wind never increased. In fact, it died down as we headed north. Bam—that was our experience of Lake Laberge—two quick days of paddling, one on glass and the second with a mellow tail wind. We camped at the bustling Lower Laberge campground, where we met an authentic Yukon character—Ben Learmont, as well as three Swiss gentlemen who had rafted their canoes together and were carrying enough beer and Coke to last an army for a week. Ben told us some great stories and gave us some hiking ideas. He has paddled the stretch of river from Whitehorse to Dawson every summer since the 1960s.

After the wide open space and slower current on Lake Laberge, it was a treat to be on the fast-flowing river again. Established campsites, complete with picnic tables and fire rings have been plentiful. This probably goes without saying, but historic sites abound. The 30 mile stretch of river from the Lower Laberge campground to Hootalinqua is a Canadian Heritage River. We noticed that this stretch is well traveled and there are several campgrounds complete with outhouses.

A stop at Hootalinqua is a must. There one can see several old cabins, the cemetery, and take a beautiful hike up on top of the bluff for a panorama view of the bend in the river. The S.S. Evelyn rests on Shipyard Island near Hootalinqua. We also stopped at Big Salmon and Little Salmon Villages.

Our luck didn't run out with the fair weather on Lake Laberge. We have had sunny, warm days for the duration. Actually, most days, we are so hot when we get to camp, that a swim is required to cool down. One day, overcast skies threatened rain. However, we didn't see a drop. It seems like late July is an excellent time to do the trip.

We have also had good luck with a nimal sightings. We have seen three black bears on shore. One was spotted across the river from our campsite and we were able to spend a good hour watching it munch blueberries as it meandered down the shore. Another bear must have been only a year old, it was so scrawny. As we paddled by, we watched it wade into the water for a mid-afternoon, cool-down swim. Beavers have been spotted regularly. One campsite was filled with the chirping of crossbills. Hands-down, the best animal encounter occurred just a couple of miles south of Carmacks. We were rounding a bend in the river. All boats except one kayak were staying in the faster current to the outside of the bend. The lucky kayaker who took the inside of the bend got to see two Canadian Lynx up close. The rest of us watched with binoculars, totally jealous of her experience. We're not sure if they were catching fish or maybe just getting a drink of water, whatever the reason, we were glad to see them hanging out on shore.

The salmon run is late, we hear. So far, we have seen one fish camp in the act of drying their catch. We have also seen a couple of nets, strung out at the mouths of smaller tributaries. Dave and I remain hopeful that we will encounter more salmon and have a chance to talk to the people who depend on the salmon run.

Our arrival in Carmacks was three days ahead of schedule. Sure, we had been conservative when planning the trip. 10 days would have meant 20 miles per day. Most people do the trip in 6 to 8 days. We wanted to take it easy since many of the people joining us had little or no canoeing experience. Also, Dave and I were expecting at least one wind-bound day on Lake Laberge. As it turned out, these folks were paddling rockstars and the weather was phenomenal.

Ben told us that the Coal Mine Campground is the place to stay, just two miles south of Carmacks. There is road access into town, if so desired, where one can find a gas station, grocery store, hotel, and restaurant. We just spent enough time in Carmacks to buy some cheese and apples, and have a picnic lunch in the shade. This group is continuing with us to Minto, 60 extra miles. By next week, we'll have a report of our experience in the Five Finger Rapids and the journey to Dawson.